The Amalfi Coast Without Filters: My Personal Journey Through Italy’s Most Glamorous Riviera

Positano

🌟 Introduction: A Journey Through the Amalfi Coast — Unfiltered, Unscripted, Unforgettable

Some places you visit. Others, you experience.

The Amalfi Coast is not just a postcard-perfect destination — it’s a place that grabs your senses, tugs at your emotions, and tempts you to live a little slower, a little bolder, a little more beautifully.

I flew in from Barcelona to Salerno, picked up a rental car (disclaimer: I’m a car lover and adore driving… but let me warn you — driving along the Amalfi Coast is not for the faint of heart. It’s a high-adrenaline sport wrapped in breathtaking views!).

From the very first turn on the cliffside road towards Amalfi, I knew this wasn’t going to be an ordinary trip. It was going to be a collection of moments — sun-soaked, lemon-scented, sea-breezed — and above all, truly unforgettable.

✈️ How to get there and get around the Amalfi Coast

My trip began in Barcelona, with a direct flight with Vueling to Salerno, which for me was the best option: fewer tourists, more practical and direct to the essentials. From there, I rented a car - because, I confess, I love driving and there is nothing that gives me more adrenaline than a good road with views.

Now... the Amalfi Coast is not for novice drivers. The curves are tight, the lanes narrow, and the scooters look like video game characters. But if you like adventure, every kilometre is a postcard in motion.

You can also choose to move by boat, which is ideal if you are looking for a scenic and relaxed alternative. Some of the main companies that offer regular routes between Salerno and Amalfi (and other points of the coast such as Positano or Capri) are:

• Travelmar – Comfortable and very punctual, with several daily schedules.

• NLG (Navigazione Libera del Golfo) – Perfect for connections to Positano and Capri as well.

• Alicost –Especially useful in high season and for longer journeys.

• Grassi Junior – Family business with options for private excursions and personalised transfers.

Travelling by boat is not only practical, but it gives you stunning views of the coast from the sea. I recommend booking in advance if you are travelling in high season and combining land and sea routes for a complete experience.

🍋 Amalfi: Lemons, Legends, and La Dolce Vita

The moment I arrived in Amalfi, the air smelled of citrus and saltwater — like a Mediterranean perfume bottled just for this little town.

Amalfi greets you with its charming streets, whitewashed façades, and tiny boutiques selling everything from hand-painted ceramics to silky lemon soaps. It’s vibrant and delicate at the same time.

The town’s heart is the Duomo di Sant’Andrea, an architectural marvel with its striped façade and majestic staircase. It feels like entering a stage set from an Italian opera. Right in front, the Fontana di Sant’Andrea is the perfect spot to refresh on a warm day.

Don’t miss the Chiostro del Paradiso, a peaceful cloister of Moorish arches — a true hidden gem that whispers history.

I also stopped at the Cape 'e Ciucci Fountain, a lesser-known 18th-century fountain with donkey heads spouting water. It’s quirky and totally Amalfi.

If you love the sea like I do, the harbor is the place to be: from boat excursions to private sailing tours, everything is possible here. Companies like Travelmar and Positano Jet offer connections between Salerno, Amalfi, and other coastal gems — smooth, stylish, and totally scenic.

And if you want to dream with your eyes open, book a stay at Hotel Santa Caterina. With its terraces overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, it's the kind of place where time slows down, and the only thing you hear is the sound of waves below your balcony.

🌸 Positano: Vertical Beauty and Mediterranean Glamour

Arriving in Positano is like entering an impressionist painting in motion: houses in pastel tones that cling to the slope, bougainvillaea in bloom hanging from centuries-old balconies, and a blue sea that seems to be hand-painted. The first image I had from the road was so shocking that I had to stop the car just to observe and sigh.

Every corner of Positano is a promise of beauty, but also a leg exercise: this town is travelled up and down stairs, getting lost in labyrinthine alleys and letting yourself be carried away without direction. And that's exactly what I did. Without maps or expectations, I immersed myself in the leisurely rhythm of this Mediterranean jewel.

I started the day at Playa Grande, watching the umbrellas aligned in perfect harmony and the boats swung with an enviable calm. Nearby, the Church of Santa María Assunta with its iconic dome of shiny tiles is another of the symbols of the town, and without a doubt, one of the most photographed places.

💫 But what really conquered me was the old town: full of exclusive boutiques, art galleries and small cafes where every corner is a movie setting. By the way, Positano is also fashionable: linen dresses, knitted hats, custom-made sandals... everything seems to have been designed to float between these streets.

One of the most special experiences was the walk through the Sentiero degli Dei (The Path of the Gods). The views from above take your breath away and live up to its name: one feels small, but lucky to be there.

I can't stop mentioning the La Sponda restaurant, located in the Le Sirenuse hotel. Although this time I only passed by to admire it, its romantic atmosphere lit by candles left me wanting to return. Instead, I had something much simpler for lunch: a homemade lasagna in a small hidden trattoria... which turned out to be, honestly, one of the best of my life. Positano has that power: to turn the simple into sublime.

And if you are looking for something more intimate, Fornillo Beach offers a more relaxed atmosphere, less touristy, but just as charming.

To end the day, I went up to one of its famous panoramic points, with views of the roofs and the sea that merge on the horizon. The moment was so perfect that I decided not to take pictures. Just look. Just be.

💙Praiano: discreet elegance in front of the most beautiful sunset on the Amalfi Coast

After the charming bustle of Positano, arriving in Praiano was like exhaling deeply. This town, more reserved and authentic, has a different rhythm. Fewer tourists, more calm, and an atmosphere of quiet luxury that traps you without you realising it.

The first thing I felt was the difference: here everything is more intimate, more leisurely. The views of the sea are enjoyed without distractions, the sounds are those of the wind and the waves, and the moments seem more like yours. I chose to stay at Casa Angelina, a minimalist design hotel that seems to float on the cliff. Its white tones, its modern sculptures and the absolutely exquisite treatment created an experience as elegant as it was enveloping.

From there, I descended to the Marina di Praia, a small cove nestled between rocks where the sea has a deep, almost mystical blue tone. You can get there on foot or by boat... I, of course, chose to go down on foot and feel the heat of the stones under my feet.

🌊 From the port leave boat trips and small routes to explore sea caves or swim far from the world. It is best to book a private excursion at sunset, with local wine and good musical accompaniment. The reflection of the sun on the facades of the houses is liquid gold. There is no better scenario.

An essential stop was Il Pirata, a restaurant on the sea where the crunch of the waves accompanies every bite. The fresh fish, the pasta with sea urchins and the white wine of the area made the dinner more than a meal: it was a sensory celebration.

Praiano also has an artistic side: small hidden chapels, staircases decorated with hand-painted tiles, and the Church of San Gennaro with its majestic dome that shines under the sun.

And at nightfall... ah, the night. Nowhere else on the coast did I see such an impressive sunset as from the hotel terrace or from the viewpoint of Via Umberto I. The sky lights up in orange and pink tones, while the sea is dyed violet. It is a moment that is kept in the skin.

Praiano doesn't scream, he whispers. And if you listen to it, it steals your heart.

🎥 Atrani: the best kept secret of the Amalfi Coast

They say that great treasures come in small jars, and Atrani is the living proof of that. With barely a thousand inhabitants and nestled between mountains that seem to jealously protect it, this tiny town has its soul intact. So authentic that it seems frozen in time... or rather, made for cinema.

In fact, it is no coincidence that he has been the scene of films such as The Talent of Mr. Ripley or Equaliser 3. And it is that walking through its alleys, crossing its main square - the only one that opens directly to the sea on the entire coast - or getting lost among its infinite stairs is like entering a perfectly lit frame.

I arrived from Amalfi, on foot. It's barely a 10-minute walk, but the change is felt immediately. Atrani is quiet, without luxury stores or crowds, only clothes lying in the sun, children playing ball and homemade aromas escaping from the windows.

I went up to the Collegiata di Santa Maria Maddalena, a charming church with privileged views of the sea. The colourful dome and the baroque bell tower are simply photogenic, but what you can't see in photos is the peace that is breathed up there.

📸 Every corner is a postcard. The arches, the stone tunnels, the tiny balconies full of bougainvillaea... and that particular sound of the waves hitting the pier while the fishermen patch up their nets. Atrani envelops you, lowers your pulse.

I ate at Le Arcate, a family restaurant facing the beach, where I tried some spaghetti with clams and lemon that left me speechless. Everything here is real. There is no imposture or spectacle. Atrani doesn't pretend, it's just.

In the afternoon, I sat on a bench in the square with a gelato, watching how the locals greeted each other by name, and I realised that this was the real luxury: living the authentic, the small, the forgotten by the guides ... but unforgettable for those who have lived it.

Atrani is not famous for other peoples, but maybe that's why it's more valuable. It is the Amalfi Coast without filters, without poses, without artifices. A place that whispers secrets to you and invites you to stay... even if it's just with your heart.

🛶 Fiordo di Furore: Where nature becomes scenery

Of all the places I visited on the Amalfi Coast, the Fjord di Furore was, without a doubt, the one that most made me feel small in the face of the greatness of the landscape. It's not just a beach, not just a cliff... it's a wild gorge that cuts the mountain in two and hides a small cove of emerald waters under a bridge that defies logic.

To get there, I decided to do it on foot, because if there is something that I am passionate about almost as much as cars... it is the routes that earn you the view. I started from the town of Furore and went down about 2.6 km of steep stairs - an authentic experience in itself! -, with each step giving me more impressive views.

The descent is intense, and the silence is only broken by the singing of the birds or some roar away from the sea. But when the view of the fjord finally opens, the effort makes sense: in front of you, a rock crack that houses a narrow peble beach, with crystal clear water where green tones and deep blue are mixed. And above all this... the icon of the place: the 30-metre-high bridge, where an international diving competition is held every summer (yes, they jump from there, crazy!).

What struck me the most was not only the landscape, but the energy of the place. It's wild, mysterious, almost mystical. I sat for a while on the shore, with my feet in the water, to simply contemplate the wonder of being among those rocks.

The climb, of course, was a small odyssey. If you decide to live this experience, get ready! It is only for the brave (or for those who are not afraid of the eternal steps). But if walking is not your thing, you can arrive by boat from Amalfi or Positano. In fact, many private or group boat excursions stop at the fjord, and it is a perfect way to discover it without suffering it as much as I do 😅.

📍 Suggestion: If you like adventure, you can book at Mare Divino Charter or Amalfi Sea Service, companies that organise boat trips with a stop at this magical point.

For me, the Fjord of Furore was a cinematic moment, a movie scene that I lived in my own skin, and that reminded me that luxury is not always in marble or stars... sometimes it is in the icy and pure water of a corner hidden among the rocks.

✈️ Salerno: The starting point... and back

After days of exploration, emotions, and postcard landscapes, it was time to say goodbye to the Amalfi Coast. But not without first enjoying one last stop: Salerno, a city often overlooked, but which surprised me for its authenticity and tranquillity after the tourist whirlwind of the best-known towns.

I arrived at the Salerno-Costa d'Amalfi airport, much more comfortable and closer than Naples, especially if you are staying in the southern area of the coast. For those looking for comfort and avoiding long transfer hours, flying to or from Salerno is a strategic option that I totally recommend. And although the airport is small, it works very well, and allows you to start (or end) the trip without stress.

I took advantage of my last hours in the city to walk along the lungomare (the promenade), enjoy a good espresso in front of the sea, and buy some local souvenir - lemoncello, of course, and hand-painted ceramics - before returning home.

As the plane took off, with the sea shining under the wings, I thought that this experience had been much more than a vacation: it was an immersion in Italian elegance, a celebration of the senses, and a way of remembering why travelling is living.

Conclusion?

The Amalfi Coast is not just a destination: it is a sensation. It's a dizzying road, a table in front of the sea with cold white wine, a boat sliding between cliffs, a sunset from a dream hotel. It is that place where life is savoured without haste and with all the senses.

💌 And if you're thinking of visiting it... don't dream about it, live it.

📍 Save this guide if it has inspired you, share it with whoever dreams of the dolce vita, and... get ready to fall in love too.